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National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888 by Goldsberry & Doran

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Page 1 of the National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams. Pattern for the collar, side back, and back of a "Ladies Basque" which is a type of high collared button up short jacket circa 1888. Text is as follows: LADIES' BASQUE. Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in six pieces : Front, Back, Side-back, Collar, and two Sleeve portions. This Basque is drafted out upon the general plan of work. Draft Back first ; raise or lower the waist line to the desired length. Care should be taken to connect waist lines.
Page 2 of The Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams.Pattern for the front of the Ladies Basque Top complete with darts.Text is as follows: LADIES' BASQUE— Continued. TO DRAFT FRONT. The front is drafted upon same plan and by same scale used in drafting Back and Side-back. If waist line has been raised or lowered in drafting Back and Side-Back, raise or lower waist line on front to correspond.
Page 3 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for the sleeves of the Ladies Basque top. Text is as follows: LADIES' BASQUE— Continued. SLEEVE. Use the same scale in drafting both upper and lower part of Sleeve that was used in drafting Back, Side Back, and Front. This rule has no exception.
Pages 4 & 5 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888
Page 6 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page contains the pattern specifically for the skirt drapery of the Ladies Costume described on the previous page.
Page 7 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888.Collar and skirt Patterns for a "Girl's Costume" which is made up of a top and skirt for a little girl. The illustration depicts a girl with a long, ribboned braid wearing a checkered dress with wide lapels that reach her waist in a V shape before cutting off flat at the bottom. She has three pairs of buttons down her abdomen, and the top cuts off low on the hips, trimmed with small ruffles, where it's sewn to a pleated skirt. Text is as follows:  GIRL'S COSTUME. Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. It is in eight pieces: Front, Back, the V for the front, Collar, and front of Reverse, one-half of Skirt and two Sleeve portions. This is very suitable for a school dress. THE SKIRT Is shirred and sewed to the waist. Regulate the length by the tape measure.
Page 8 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Front, back, sleeve, and back of the collar pattern pieces for the Girl's Costume.
Page 9 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for the front and back of the vest for the Misses Walking Costume.  Text is as follows: MISSES' WALKING COSTUME. THE BASQUE, Is drafted by the scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in six pieces: Front, Back, Side Back, Vest Front and two Sleeve portions. TO MAKE BASQUE Like the figure shows, draft the front upon the general plan of work. Trace from 2 and 1 half on top measure line down to 11 on base line, then from 11 on base line to 2 on cross measure line and down to 1 and 1 half on cross measure line at the bottom of the basque. Cut this out, allowing enough to turn under and fasten to the Vest Front. THE VEST FRONT Is sewed in the first dart and extends to 4 and 3 fourths on one cross measure line at the shoulder. THE BACK Can be cut plain if preferred.
Page 10 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Kilt Skirt for the Misses walking Costume. Text is as Follows: Use scale corresponding with waist measure. Is in two pieces: Yoke and Plaiting for skirt. There are 36 plaits in the skirt. But 11 and a half are here given, the balance are drafted accordingly. Press the plaits carefully and sew to the yoke. Regulate the length by the tape measure. This page has a lovely illustration of a fairly simple skirt with a smooth yoke over the hips and long pleats that emerge from the bottom of it, reaching the floor. There are also several patterns on the page, two for the skirt and two pieces of the vest front from the prior page.
Page 11 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page has illustrations of the outfit on either side of the text and a small version of the diagram underneath. The woman has her hair piled in a simple updo and is gazing off to to the left in both illustrations. The garment is a beautiful basque which is an outer top that goes over the shirtwaist that you can see peeping out in ruffles above the folded over high collar. The buttons go all the way up the throat and down to the bottom of the top which cuts off in a blunt line at the top of the hips and flares in the back to rest on top of the bustle. The back is pleated with a wedge of decorated material on either side to help extend the edge and let it round out and lay properly on the bustle. The left illustration shows the right side of the skirt drapery which lays in pleats with a contrasting center wedge fabric that fan out from the contrasted wedge. the right side shows the left side of the dress where the drapery wraps around in elegant gathers and wraps in a sort of tulip shape that crosses just under and in front of the contrasting wedge on this side. Ladies' Costume. To Draft the Basque. Use scale corresponding with bust measure. Is in six pieces: Front, Back, Side, Back, Collar, and two Sleeve Portions. Care should be taken to connect the waist lines. The Drapery. Use scale corresponding with waist measure. Is in two pieces: Front and Back. The right side of the front drapery is laid in the four upward0turning plaits, while the left side is laid in four backward-turning plaits. The Back Drapery. The left side is laid in a double box plait. The right side is laid in seven backward-turning plaits. They are all marked on the draft. The space between 37 and 3 fourths and 51 and a half on base line, is a loop that falls underneath the drapery. Bring 1 and 1 fourth on cross measure line running from 37 3 fourths on base line and 12 3 fourths on cross measure line running from 51 and a half on base line, together at the center of the back. This forms a lovely drapery without any looping whatever.
Page 13 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a girls top for an outfit called the Girl's Gabrielle.  Text is as follows: Draft by scale corresponding with bust measure. Regulate waist lines and length of sleeve as in first basque. Notice the arrows closely in drafting. If desired, regulate length of skirt by tape measure. The skirt is a straight piece of goods and may be so cut and plaited to suit the taste. The distance from 3 and 1 fourth to 6 and 3 fourths at the top of the skirt and from 3 to 6 and a half at the bottom, forms the outside of one plait. The others are laid accordingly. The draft for the box plaited skirt is given on page 15. This costume is again shown as a street costume on page 14.
Page 14 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888.  The street costume jacket pattern and sleeves. Text is as follows:  TO DRAFT THE WAIST, Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in three pieces: Front, Back and Side Back. Is drafted upon the general plan of the work. THE JACKET Is drafted by scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in five pieces : Front, Back, Side Back, and two Sleeve portions. It has a lap on each side of the side back turning toward the center of back, and finished with three buttons on each side.   THE SKIRT Is drafted out by the scale corresponding with the waist measure. Only one-half is here given. Is laid in Single Box Plaits as shown on the figure. Can be made of any material. THE SASH Is of ribbon, or of the same material as the suit. Regulate the length by the use of the tape meas- ure.
Page 15 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for the box skirt and ladies open drawers.   Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with waist measure. Only one-half are given. The band can be made any width desired. The length can be regulated by the tape measure. Allow for the tucks. There is an illustration of some bloomers aka the drawers with several inches of lace around the knees.
Page 16 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page contains two illustrations of a small child wearing a shorter version of an adult woman's outfit as was the custom at the time.  Said outfit has a deep V on the front and back reaching all the way down to the hip, and has a large bow on either shoulder. The back is bustled with a good bit of gathering taking place in both the back and front. The underskirt reaches to mid calf, It's ruffled hem sitting neatly above a pair of long buttoned boots and stockings.<br /> <br /> This page also contains parts of the patterns for a child's costume. Text is as follows: THE POLONAISE Is drafted out by the scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in seven pieces, upper and under fronts, upper and under backs, collar and two sleeve portions. THE UPPER FRONT Is drafted out upon the general plan of work, and is laid in three folds or plaits, which are located on the cross measure line running from 1 and 5 eighths on base line to 9 and 3 fourths on cross measure line at the top, and also on the cross measure line running from 17 on base line to 16 and a half on cross measure line. These plaits are carefully folded and pressed and fastened to the under front on the line running diagonally from the figure 9 at the shoulder down to the figure i at the bottom of the draft. THE WAIST Should be closed on the left side with hooks and eyes. THE UNDER FRONT Is sewed in the dart iinder the arm, and is made of velvet or any contrasting material. THE BACK Is drafted and plaited upon the same plan. There are three upward turning plaits in the back drapery.
Page 17 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page contains the Patterns for the child's costume continued. Text is as follows: THE SKIRT Is drafted by the scale corresponding with the waist measure. Is in three pieces, Front, Back and Side Gore. And is finished at the bottom with two rows of side plaiting three inches wide. Any style of trimming may be used. Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.
Page 18 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Patterns for a Ladies Costume. Text is as follows: This is a beautiful basque with vest front and single front dart. The drapery only of the skirt is given, as the under part of the skirt is cut plain with a row of narrow plaiting at the bottom. TO CUT BASQUE. Take measure and follow instructions same as in first basque, in cutting this basque. The vest part can be of any material desired. The skirt is drafted by waist measure. In making the basque, if the lining is all that is cut as far back as the under arm dart, the vest proper will have to be stitched firmly upon the lining. The trimming on the side drapery should be a straight strip four to six inches wide. The sleeve may have a cuff put upon it of same material as vest and trimming on side drapery with very pleasant effect. The back of the basque is cut plain and no trimming used. The collar is a straight band the width desired. THE DRAPERY Is cut in two pieces : Back Drapery and Front Drapery. Turn eight plaits towards the center in the back drapery as shown by the numbers on top measure line. Only one-half the drapery is given, and four plaits are shown in the part given. Turn the first plait by laying the notch at 20 and 3 fourths on the center, the next plait by placing 14 and one third on 19 and 3 fourths, 7 and 1 fourth on 13 and 3 fourths, and 1 on 6 and a half. This gives the plaits on right side. Lay plait on left side the same, and securely fasten to the band. Lay four plaits at the side in the same manner, according to the figures given. Turn four plaits in front drapery as shown by the figures. Fasten the right side of the drapery with ornaments, leaving it open below the last ornament. The left side is fastened all the way down. The skirt has a plain narrow plaiting at the bottom.
Page 19 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page contains more diagrams and patterns for the Ladies Costume continued.
Page 20 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. <br /> This page is labelled Patterns for the drapery and contains the diagrams for the drapery on top of the skirt.
Page 21 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Little girl's dress. There is an illustration of a girl with one arm behind her back bowed forward and scattering seeds or pebbles with the other hand. Her outfit is fairly short, only knee length, with long sleeves. The collar is high, with ruffles, and a diagonal "sash" of ruffles crosses the chest from shoulder to hip. Around the hip, a sash with a large bow is tied in front placed off to the side opposite the ruffle join. The skirt poofs out in multiple pleats beneath this and is trimmed with a small amount of lace. The cuffs also are trimmed with a nice lace as well.<br /> <br /> Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in six pieces: Right and Left Front, Back, Collar and two Sleeve portions. The Sash is of Ribbon. THE SKIRT Is a straight piece of goods or embroidery cut the desired length and width. The length can be obtained by the tape measure.
Page 22 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a girl's plaited waist and skirt. This page has a pair of illustrations depicting the front and back of this outfit. The top is a lovely shirt with a folded collar and multiple pintucks down the front and back. The skirt is pleated, looks to be about knee or mid-calf length, and sports a wide sash with a massive, floppy bow in back functioning as both bustle and drapery. Text is as follows. Lining first. Plait front and back as shown by figures on drafts, making five plaits on each side both in front and back. Baste the two pieces of the back together and lay the goods after plaiting on the linings and cut out. Ten double box plaits in skirt. Plaits can be made from straight material without making draft.
Page 23 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is labelled Girl's plaited waist and skirt pattern continued, and contains the skirt patterns.
Page 24 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page contains a pair of diagrams for the sleeve and front of the gown as well as an illustration of a woman wearing the garment. The woman has her hair piled on top of her head with curling bangs and escapees at the nape of her neck. The gown has a high simple collar and pintucks around the top. The pintucks are bordered with what looks like a dark flat collar but it extends all the way to the floor. Around her waist is a simple ribbon tied in a bow at her front with the tails almost reaching the floor. The gown has no decoration to it, and the bustle is just a pair of simple pleats. The cuffs being trimmed with the same dark material as the collar.<br /> <br /> Text is as follows: THE PLAITING. For the front is laid in fine forward turning plaits and fastened to the lining, and the upper front is blind stitched over it. The revers of velvet may be omitted. If preferred, lace may be used with a very pleasing effect.<br /> <br /> THE BACK. Is laid in two double box plaits. Care should be taken to connect waist lines. Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.<br /> <br /> Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in seven pieces: Front, Back, Side Back, Plaiting for the Front, Collar, and two Sleeve portions. The Line on the front marked under front is to cut the lining out by, and the line marked upper front is to cut the goods out by, that the Tea Gown is to be made of.
Page 25 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is titled Ladies' Tea Gown Continued and contains the diagrams for the sleeve, Plaiting for front, box plait, and side gore.
Page 26 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Ladies' Polonaise, text is as follows: LADIES' POLONAISE. This Polonaise consists of five pieces: Back, Side Back, Front and two Sleeve portions. Cut back and side back upon the general plan of work. Cut the right front on the line running diagonal from 13 and a half on the fourth cross measure line down to 17 and 1 eighth. Cut the left front straight as shown by the line running from 17 and 1 eighth on third cross measure line to 17 and 1 eighth on tenth cross line. In making up this costume lay two double box plaits in back as shown by the figures . Joint front and side form, pressing the seams carefully. Lay four side plaits on each front as shown in draft by the points, cut in on space between 17 and 1 eighth and 18 and 1 eighth sew in the four plaits and press carefully. Loop up the back with one or two loops as desired. Drape back and front so the lower drapery is even. Bring the drapery on side back up in five plaits as shown by the lines between 12 and 5 eighths and 32 and 3 fourths. The distance from 12 and 1 eighth to 19 (on base line), forms one plait, the center being at 16 and a half, 19 to 24 forming another; but it is easier to plait up from the bottom, beginning with 33 to 28 and ending with 19 to 12 and 5 eighths. The skirt is a plain skirt with a row of plaiting at the bottom. Use any kind of buttons and ornaments desired. Set the buttons on left front. (No instructions are given in running seams, as it is deemed unnecessary.)
Page 27 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page contains two diagrams, one labelled 49c and the other 49a. It is titled Ladies' Polonaise Continued.
Page 28 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Misses Costume, Text is as follows Draft back and side back of basque upon the same plan given in first basque. But do not connect the three points from arms eye on back with the curve as there given. Connect two points at a time. DRAFT FRONT by drawing base line at least three spaces from edge of material. Make the draft as shown in diagram. TO GET RIGHT FRONT turn under the material on line 1 and 1 fourth spaces from base line. Take a tracing wheel and trace the line beginning on the point at 1 and 1 fourth on third cross line out to 3 and a half. Follow the line down to 4 on next line below. Follow this line by tracing down by points marked 4, 3 and 1 fourth to 1 and 1 fourth on waist line. Turn this back and cut the goods on the tracing line outside of base line and to 1 and 1 fourth waist line. This gives the right front. THE LEFT FRONT is cut on the line in draft same as any other plain front. Instead of cutting diagonal as has been given, the basque may be cut full double-breasted by running line as much farther back as desired, than is here given; then running the line down to top of first Any style of diagonal or double-breasted garment may be gotten up on this plan, or if preferred the cutter may use the plan of draft given in ladies' polonaise with diagonal front. Gather the sleeve, making notches, join at dart and following first line of dart down to bottom elbow. Collar is a straight band width and length desired.
Page 29 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page contains the diagrams for the front, back, side-back, and sleeves. It is titled Misses' Costume Continued.
Page 30 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page contains the patterns for half of the back drapery and the side drapery. Text is as follows: Only one-half of each drapery here is given. Lay plaits in each piece to correspond with numbers given in draft. Four plaits on each side of waist line of back drapery. Three at the side of back drapery. Lay seven plaits in side drapery.
Page 31 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is labelled Misses' Costume Continued, and contains a pattern for one half of the front drapery.
Page 32 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page contains Patterns for the front and back of the shirt and pants as well as the sleeves. Text is as follows: Boys' Plain Waist and Pants. To Draft Waist. Use scale corresponding with the chest measure. Is in two pieces: Front and Back. To Draft Pants. Use scale corresponding with the hip measure. Is in two pieces: Front and Back. Regulate the length by use of the tape measure.
Page 33 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888
Page 34 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page contains a pair illustrations for the front and back of the Ladies' Costume. Pattern for a ladies Costume: LADIES' COSTUME. Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in seven pieces : Front, Back, Front Drapery, Rolling and Standing Collar, and two Sleeve portions. Is cut with a polonaise back and basque front, with a long drapery in front, as shown in the figure. To make the front of the basque as represented here, draft the front the same as any other front; trace on the dotted line running diagonal from 3 and a half on the half cross measure line, down to 10 and a half on base line, turn away and join the rolling collar, and let it extend to the center of the back. The V in the front is made of any material. Either plaited or plain velvet combines with any material, and gives the costume a very rich and stylish finish.
Page 35 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page contains Patterns for the front and back of the Ladies' Costume as well as the sleeves.
Page 36 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page contains three patterns labelled No. 1 L. The part for the reeds, the side gore, and the front. Ladies' Skirt with Reeds. Use Scale Corresponding with the waist measure. Is in three pieces : Front, Side Gore, and one-half of Back breadth. If but three reeds are used, omit the lower one. Regulate the length by the tape line.
Page 37 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. <br /> This page has a pair of illustrations in addition to the pattern of the front and back of an outfit for a young child. It is a fairly simple pleated and flared skirt that reaches the knees, and a jacket top with a deep, wide lapeled, V from neck to hem. There are little plaid rectangles sewn at a diagonal angle on each pleat and one on each shoulder on the back yoke of the jacket. This page is labelled Child's Costume pattern, Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in five pieces : Front, Back, Vest Front, Collar, and one- half of the Skirt. THE VEST Can be made of the same material as the dress, and the Collar made of the contrasting material, if preferred. THE SKIRT Is laid in single box plaits; the trimming may be omitted. Regulate the length by the tape measure.
Page 38 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Another variation of a Ladies' Costume. There are two illustrations on the page depicting a woman showing the front and back. This outfit doesn't have any ruffles, instead it has box pleats clustered down the skirt every so often that add break up a very simple cut. The front of the vest has buttons extending all the way to the hem which splits into two points in the front. the Skirt has buttons and frogs spanning across a panel of the skirt that is in a different colour than the rest in front. There is a small gathered pile of fabric in the back that sits atop the bustle. Text is as follows: LADIES' COSTUME. TO CUT BASQUE. Use scale corresponding with bust measure. Is in eight pieces: Front, Back, Side Back, Under-arm Gore, Vest, Collar, and two Sleeve portions. The vest is sewed in the first dart and in the shoulder seam, and can be made of velvet or any contrasting color. The sleeves can be finished at the hand with a small round cuff of the same material as the vest, with very pleasing effect. THE SKIRT Is drafted by the waist measure, and is in four pieces: Front, Right and Left Sides, and Back Drapery. The front is made of the same material as the vest and cuffs. The left side consists of two double box plaits. The right side has five side plaits turning toward the front, as shown on draft. The straps across the front are 3 and a half inches wide. The lower one is 7 inches long, and the upper one is 5 and a half inches long; cut the remaining four to correspond, and fasten on front of skirt, as shown by the figure. First make a foundation skirt (cut from the plain skirt pattern). Press the plait carefully, tack with tape underneath, to stay the plaits, and fasten to foundation skirt a the waist with a band; finish bottom of foundation skirt with knife plaiting 3 inches wide. The back drapery is laid in five plait turning toward center of back; drape up to make bottom even.
Page 39 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page contains the sleeve, vest, front drapery and top of skirt patterns for the second variant of the Ladies' Costume. It is titled Ladies' Costume Continued.
Page 40 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page contains the back side plaiting pattern and the top of the back drapery pattern.
Page 41 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page contains and is labelled the Pattern for a ladies Kitchen apron. There are two illustrations showing the front and back of said apron, which is more of an old fashioned type pinafore smock. It has the typical apron top but the skirt part extends almost to the floor and wraps completely around the back fastened by two buttons at the waist instead of a sash, and a third button on the round of the bustle to keep the apron from gaping. There is a pair of absolutely massive pockets trimmed with diagonal striping. Text is as follows: LADIES' KITCHEN APRON. Use scale corresponding with bust measure. Is in six pieces: Front, Back, Shoulder-strap, Belt, Pocket, and Strap. The binding should be held tight, to prevent enlarging the neck. Regulate length by the tape line.
Page 42 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a ladies cutaway jacket, which shows two illustrations of the front and back of a simple jacket that is meant to lay open atop the shirtwaist and vest. It has a foldover collar which closes via a lovely frog closure that is the fanciest thing about the jacket aside from the engraving made to look as if the pattern has some sort of small print to the fabric. Text is as follows: LADIES' CUTAWAY JACKET. Use scale corresponding with bust measure. Is in six pieces : Front, Back, Side Back, Collar, and two Sleeve portions. Is made of any material, and can be worn with any costume. Interline the collar with canvas. Connect waist line
Page 43 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This dress contains the Pattern for a ladies Morning Dress. It has a pair of illustrations depicting the front and back of a very simple pinstriped gown. It has buttons closing the entire dress from collar to hem, and on the bustle in back is a simple ruffle in a straight line from which four large pleats fall. The hem is encircled with a similar small ruffled trim, but otherwise is very plain. Text is as follows: LADIES' MORNING DRESS. Use scale corresponding with bust measure. Is in seven pieces: Front, Back, Side Back, Back Breadth, Collar, and two Sleeve portions. Is drafted upon the general plan of work. The back breadth is turned down two inches; gather and sew to the back on the curved line 18 and 1 fourth on base line, and the curved line on side back 12 and a half on base line. Sew the back and side back together first; the bottom can be finished with plaiting or gathered ruffles. Regulate the length by the tape measure.
Page 44 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a child's cloak, which is essentially just a simple mid-thigh length jacket with four frog closures. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with bust measure. Is in five pieces: Front, Back, Collar and two Sleeve portions. Lay two single box plaits in the back. The front can be finished with buttons, if preferred. Regulate the length by the tape measure.
Page 45 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for an infant's High Neck Dress. The illustrations depict the front and back of a dress resembling a short sleeved chemise. the back has a yoke that's edged in a small ruffled trim that extends over the shoulders, down the front, and spreads out a bit before reaching the large ruffles attached to the hem. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with bust measure. Is in four pieces: Front, Back, Side-gore and Sleeve. The upper and the under part of sleeve is drafted together, as shown in draft. Quantity of material required: 36 inches wide, 2 and 3 fourths yards; wide lace, 2 and 5 eighths yards; insertion, 5 yards.
Page 46 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Ladies' Polonaise with a front and back illustration of a woman in an 1888 high necked gown with bustle. This page contains two illustrations depicting the dress. The first is of a woman looking over her shoulder with one hand on an envelope on the table next to her, and the other holding a letter. The dress has a simple cut along the top with long sleeves, but the buttons extend down to a deep asymmetrical v going diagonally from hip to hip where the drapery gathers neatly across the front before being piled on top of the bustle. Think a wrap around coat that reaches floor length on one side and then scoops upwards to eventually have the material deposited on the bustle. four wide ribbons extend down, artfully arranged to drape over the left hip, in various lengths from the bustle. beneath the drapery, the skirt emerges in small, neat, box pleats reaching the floor. The second illustration depicts a woman in a tall feathered cap with her arm bent at the elbows as if she's gesturing to someone as she talks. The back of the dress shows the bustle piled high, from which emerge a series of wider box pleats making up the long portion of the coat. Text is as follows: LADIES' POLONAISE. Use scale corresponding with bust measure. Is in five pieces : Front, Back, Collar and two Sleeve portions. The two fronts are cut together, to avoid a seam down the front of the drapery. It is easily drafted if care is taken to follow the lines and figures given on the diagram. Each piece is numbered. Study the draft carefully before commencing. The left side is sewed together with the back drapery. Lay four upward turning plaits on right side, and fastened to the back drapery, as shown on the figure. The bow of ribbon can be omitted, if preferred. The back and side back are drafted together, as shown on diagram. The line running diagonally from 24 3/4 on base line to 6 1/2 waist line, extending to 9 5/8 on waist line, is laid in five side plaits, turning toward center of back, and fastened firmly to center of back. Lay six side plaits on each side, on cross measure line, running from 32 3/4 on base line to 19 3/4 on the opposite side of draft. When plaited, press carefully and tack to tape, to stay the plaits. Omit the tacking at the bottom.
Page 47 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is titled Ladies' Polonaise Continued and contains two patterns Labelled No. L X. One pattern is labelled as the back and contains markers for the pleats.
Page 48 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a child's costume. There is an illustration of a child wearing the costume which is simple, knee length, and gingham print. They wear a flat short brimmed hat as well with a wide band and ribbons extending downwards. The dress has a high collar, two pin tucks, one on either side of the chest, extending down to the waistband, which is wide and set low on the hips and onto the thighs. It sports two buttons to hold it closed, and a pleated skirt bottom. Text is as follows: This is a beautiful costume, suitable for either boy or girl. Is drafted by bust measure, and is in six pieces: Front, Back, Belt, Collar and two Sleeve portions. There are three single box plaits in front and back, extending to the shoulders, and three under the arm, as shown in draft. The plaits at top of back are marked on 2 measure line, or fourth line drawn from top, for convenience ; and the plaits are marked on front on 3 and a half measure line, for the same reason
Page 49 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is labelled child's costume continued and contains the patterns for the sleeves and the right front of the dress.
Page 50 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Girl's costume. There is a set of illustrations of a front and back view of the girl wearing the costume holding a sheaf of papers. The top resembles a high neck split tail jacket over a vest and pleated skirt that comes down to the calves. The girl is wearing tall boots and gingham print stockings. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with the bust measure to cut the Polonaise. Is in six pieces : Front and Vest Front, Back, Side Back, Collar, and one-half of plaiting for the Skirt. THE VEST is sewed in the under-arm dart and at the shoulders. The Vest, Lappel, and Collar can be made of velvet or any contrasting material if desired. Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.
Page 51 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is labelled Girl's Costume Continued, and has the patterns for the collar, top, and top of girl's kilt skirt.
Page 52 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Ladies Street jacket with an illustration in the upper left corner of a really pretty high necked jacket with a split on either side of a faux vest. There are buttons all the way from the neck down, and there are decorative large fake buttons on either side of the faux vest on the wide lapels as well. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with bust measure. Is in ten pieces: Jacket Front, Vest Front, Back, Side Back, Underarm Gore, Rever for front of Jacket, Collar, Cuff, and two Sleeve portions. The jacket can be made of any material. Lay two double box plaits in the back. The vest is made of velvet. The vest front and jacket front are joined together with the underarm gore.
Page 53 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a child's costume with an illustration of the back view in the upper right corner. The child is wearing a jacket with a ribbon and button fastened at the waist, in back to keep the jacket fitting snugly, and to keep from being bulky over a pleated skirt with little diamonds on each pleat. Text is as follows: TO CUT JACKET. Use scale corresponding with bust measure. Is in five pieces: Front, Back, Collar and two Sleeve portions. THE SKIRT Is drafted by waist measure, and is in two pieces, half of skirt, and yoke. There are two double box plaits in skirt; 5 and a half are given in plate. Others are made the same. The Trimming on skirt can be omitted, if desired. The length can be regulated by tape measure
Page 54 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Child's cloak pattern with a pair of illustrations of a young child wearing it. It looks like a high waisted dress with a wide sash, that reaches down past mid-calf. It has buttons from the waist up to the collar, and in the back shows a floppy but pointed hood with ribbons coming out the point. The child is also wearing a bonnet tied at the chin with a large ribbon. It has ruffles in the front and their hair lays long as it emerges from the nape. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with bust measure. Is in eight pieces: Front, Back, one-half of Skirt, Hood, Collar and two Sleeve portions. This is a very fashionable Cloak, and can be made of any material. The Skirt is cut long, and can be plaited if preferred. The Cuffs, Collar and Hood lining is made of velvet. Regulate the length by the use of the tape line.
Page 55 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This pattern is labelled child's cloak continued and contains half of the front skirt and the sleeve patterns.
Page 56 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Girl's Apron. The Apron is essentially a full smock, sleeveless, with ruffled edging along the collar, sleeve holes, pocket flaps, and hem. The back is gathered and has buttons running all the way down the back, and it also has a large sash with bow to keep it snug around the waist. Text is as follows: This garment is laid off by the bust measure and in accordance with the general directions. It is in five pieces: Front, Back, Yoke, Pocket and Sash. Gather across the top of the back and join it to the yoke from one end of each portion of the sash and insert it in the under-arm seams as shown by notches. Turn a lap on the pocket and attach it in proper place. Any style of trimming may be used. One inch is allowed on shoulder and under-arm seams; one-fourth inch on all others. 1 and a half space seam on the shoulders.
Page 57 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a ladies' Newmarket with Cape, with a pair of illustrations of a woman in a hat with a long, sleek, floorlength coat that has a capelet and a slight bustle. It has no additional decorations or trims. The lady in the illustration however wears a tall, feathered cap with a curled short brim that sits on a curve to frame her updo. Text is as follows: This is again shown on page 58. The Cape and rolling Collar are given on this page, and drafted by the scale corresponding to the bust measure. This Cape can be made of fur, Astrachan cloth, or of the same material as the Newmarket.
Page 58 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for the Ladies' Newmarket as referenced in the previous image. This page has the illustration of the dress alone which is a simple high necked gown with buttons all the way up and a small bit of pleating on the back of the skirt. It has a smaller bustle and minimal decoration. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with bust measure. Is in six pieces : Front, Back, Side Back, Collar, and two Sleeve portions. Lay six plaits in the center of the back, and finish with an arrowhead, made of silk twist, or any kind of ornament desired. Use large buttons to fasten front and finish the sleeves.
Page 59 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is titled Ladies' Newmarket Continued and contains the front, side back, and sleeve patterns for the garment.
Page 60 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Ladies' Wrap with two illustrations of the garment front and back. It's basically a floor length coat with wide sleeves, a soft bustle slope with pleats, and buttons going all the way up. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with bust measure. Is in five pieces: Front, Back, underarm Gore, Collar and Sleeve. Draft upon the general plan. Connect waist lines in putting the garment together. Fold the sleeve at the figure 13 and 3 fourths on base line, designated by a star, after which join it to the back. Join to the star on the cross measure line running from 15 and a half on base line. Between the two stars at the top of the sleeve on cross measure line running from 1 and a half on base line are to be gathered. Follow the arrows closely in drafting. There is one double box plait in the center of the back. Any style of an ornament can be used.
Page 61 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is titled Ladies' Wrap Continued and contains the patterns for the front, back, and underarm gore.
Page 62 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Page with illustrations and text for a Ladies' Street Costume. The illustration features a woman in a dress with a very gathered and drapy bustle. Her hair in an updo encircled by a braid, with what looks like a fascinator or some sort of small hat pinned in and incorporated as part of her hairstyle, as well as tied under her chin with ribbon. The skirt of the dress features Trim resembling a cable knit in multiple rows with spaces in between them. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in six pieces: Right and Left Front, Back, Collar and two Sleeve portions. This is a beautiful polonaise, and easily drafted if care is taken to follow the arrows closely. Each plait is marked. The left Front has seven up- ward-turning plaits. The right Front has three up- ward-turning plaits. These two fronts are drafted separately, but the material of which the Polonaise is to be made should be cut double to avoid a seam down the front. The waist is left open down to the figures 25 on base line. The Back and Side Back is drafted together. The extra fullness in the back is laid in plaits. There are two loops, one on each side. The Back is draped up until it becomes even at the bottom of the skirt, THE SKIRT Is cut from the plain skirt given in this issue. Any style of trimming may be used on the Skirt. Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.
Page 63 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is titled Ladies' Street Costume Continued and contains the patterns for the back, sleeve, and collar.
Page 64 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is titled Ladies' Street Costume Continued, and contains the patterns for the right and left front of the garment.
Page 65 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a child's apron with an illustration. It's very similar to modern aprons just more rounded and extending all the way around the back to protect the garment. It has the shoulder straps and apron as one large piece, and with lace edging. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. It is in two pieces: One-half of Front and Tie. Ribbon can be used for the ties, if preferred. Regulate length by the tape measure.
Page 66 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a child's street costume with an illustration of a girl wearing said outfit, holding some sort of plant sprig. The outfit is calf length with a bustle, it splits at the neck into an upside down v and goes all the way down to the hem, with trim on either side. there are tiers of ruffles in the center of the V as well. The girl is also wearing a large beret type hat with a pompom and is holding a sprig of some sort of plant. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in seven pieces: Upper and Under Front Back and Front, Collar and two Sleeve portions. This is drafted upon the general plan of work. The Front and Side Back are drafted together. Baste the Front and Back together; get the desired length for the skirt by the tape measure. It is a straight piece of goods, can be either laid in plaits or gathered. This costume is gathered. The Back is finished with a large bow of ribbon. The Upper Front is shirred on 24 cross measure line, and sewed to the Under Front on 21 and a half cross measure line. The Upper Front is gathered at the neck to fit Under Front. The right side is fastened firmly to the Front. The garment is closed on the left side with hooks and eyes. Lace may be used instead of embroidery, if desired. Regulate the length by the use of tape measure.
Page 67 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is labelled Child's Street Costume Continued and contains patterns for the Upper front, under front, back, and collar.
Page 68 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Ladies Spencer Waist and Ladies Dusting cap. The Waist is a simple shirt with no decoration aside from trim along the angled cuffs and the simple high collar. The dusting cap is a bonnet for containing the hair while cleaning and is just a simple head covering with some box pleats along the edge. Text is as follows: LADIES' SPENCER WAIST. Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in five pieces : Front, Back, Collar and two Sleeve portions, 1 and 1 fourth space seams. Make belt the desired length and width. LADIES' DUSTING CAP. Use scale 32 to draft this out by. Can be made of any material.
Page 69 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Ladies Short Wrap with an illustration of a very luxuriously trimmed coat with wide sleeves and an angled hem. Text is as follows: LADIES' SHORT WRAP. Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in five pieces: Front, Back, Underarm Gore, Collar and Sleeve. Follow the arrows closely. Connect the waistlines and join the notches. Close in front with hooks and eyes. Any style of trimming may be used.
Page 70 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Child's Cloak which is actually just another jacket but this time calf length. Think of a long pea coat with a bustle and some pleating in the back along it, and you've got the gist of what the young girl in the illustrations is wearing. She also has the classic fur hand muff and cap. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in eight pieces: Front Back, Side Back, Collar, Cuff, Hood, and two Sleeve portions. Lay the plaits in Back and Side Back according to the notches. Gather the hood at the top and bottom. Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.
Page 71 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. More pattern pieces for the child's cloak as well as a pattern for a child's costume, which is a short button up jacket with a skirt that has two rows of buttons. Text is as follows: To draft Jacket, Vest and Sleeves, use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in eight pieces: two Fronts, two Backs, Collar, two Sleeve portions and one-half of Skirt. This is drafted upon the general plan of work. The Skirt is drafted by the scale corresponding with the waist measure. Lay plaits according to the notches. Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.
Page 72 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is labelled Child's Costume Continued, and contains patterns for two front pieces, a back piece, and half of a front box plait.
Page 73 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Ladies Chemise, which is depicted in the illustrations as having short puffed cap sleeves and a lacy scooped neckline. The lace insert itself plunges down into a V and the chemise fabric is gathered along it for added effect. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with bust measure. Is in six pieces: Front, Back, Front Yoke, Back Yoke, Band and Sleeve. Regulate the length by the tape measure.
Page 74 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Child's combination undergarments pattern. The illustration depicts the equivalent of a knee length romper with short sleeves and lace along the hems and collar. the back has buttons going from waist to collar, and there is a buttoned flap along the back so that the child can go to the bathroom. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in three pieces : Front, Back, and Sleeve. Is drafted out upon the general plan of work. Follow the arrows closely. No allowance is made for the tucks. Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.
Page 75 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is labelled Child's Combination Continued, and contains the pattern for it.
Page 76 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Ladies Street costume with an illustration of a woman wearing a very fancy outfit while holding a parasol. The sleeves reach the elbow and are flared out in an exaggerated bell shape that's almost a semicircle at this point. The three tiers of lace allow the sleeve to reach the wrists, where a gloved hand emerges. There are ruffles going from the high neck all the way down to the knees, and the dress has two different fabric print patterns for the top vs the skirt and drapery. Text is as follows: TO DRAFT BASQUE. Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in eight pieces — Front, Back, Side Back, two Under Arm Gores, Collar and two Sleeve portions. This is a French basque, of which there is such a demand at present, and gives the most perfect shape to the figure for which we are fitting of any basque we have. The Front may be turned away and insert a vest if preferable, and also allowance may be made for plaits in the Back. THE SLEEVES May be finished with a cuff at the hand if desired. THE DRAPERY. Use scale corresponding with the waist measure. Is in two pieces — Front and Back, and is laid in plaits as shown on the figure. The pattern for the wrap is given in this issue, and is a very stylish and dressy wrap. THE SKIRT Is cut from the plain skirt pattern, given in this issue. Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure. The diagrams for the wrap is given on page 80.
Page 77 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. More pieces of the pattern along with a back illustration of a woman wearing the fancy bustled outfit. There is a myriad of pleats framing the bustle and the top has copious amount of lace around the base of the top and the sleeves. There also appears to be a lace appliqué going from the back of the neck down to mid back.
Page 78 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is titled Ladies' Street Costume Continued and contains the pattern for the back drapery and the sleeves.
Page 79 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is labelled Ladies' Street Costume Continued and contains patterns for the under arm gores, the collar and the Center of the Front Drapery.
Page 80 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for the Ladies Wrap, text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with bust measure. It consists of four pieces: Front, Back, Sleeve and Collar. This is drafted upon the general plan of work. Watch the arrows closely. Join together according to the notches. The sleeves are loose. Any style of trimming may be used, and almost any material. Find collar for wrap on page 79. The design of this wrap is given on page 76 and 77 (Ladies' Street Costume)
Page 81 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Child's Street Costume with an illustration of a child wearing a wide brimmed hat, said outfit, which is a sort of jacket and pleated skirt that comes to mid calf, and posed with one hand pointing out and the other behind their back. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in ten pieces : Right and Left Front, Yoke and Shirring for Front, Back, Side Back, Collar, two Sleeve portions and one- half of box-plaited Skirt. THE FRONT. The dotted line running from 3 and a half on first cross measure line down to 4 and a half on bottom line is the lining for the yoke and shirring for vest. After the shirring for the vest is gathered at top and sewed to the yoke and gathered at the bottom, baste it to the right front. Close at the left side with hooks and eyes. THE BACK Is faced with the same material as the vest front and looped up to form a bow in center of back. Any style of trimming may be used. THE SKIRT Is laid in box plaits. Regulate length by the tape measure.
Page 82 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. More patterns for the Child's Street Costume with an illustration of the back view that shows the jacket sort of splits in the back for the bustle and the split is hidden by a large bow. The child is also holding a purse basically which is a small pouch on a string.
Page 83 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Ladies Combination Undergarment which looks like a tee shirt romper or a short knee length jumpsuit with cap sleeves and buttons going from the collar to where the fly would sit on pants. the edges are trimmed with lace, and text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in three pieces: Front, Back and Sleeve. Is drafted out upon the general plan of work. Follow the arrows closely. No allowance is made for the tucks. Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.
Page 84 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Boy's suit, with an illustration at the top left of a young boy wearing it and showing the back of the jacket which has some sort of pleating or pintucks and a pair of knee length shorts with high socks and boots. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with the chest measure. Is in eight pieces : Front, Back, Collar, Belt and two Sleeve portions, and the two portions for the Knee Pants. Is drafted on the general plan of work. Each plait is marked on the draft. Follow the arrows closely. THE PANTS Are drafted by the scale corresponding with the waist measure. Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.
Page 85 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is titled Boys Suit Continued and contains the sleeve, belt, and pants patterns.
Page 86 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. A pattern for another boy's suit with an illustration at the top left of a simple suit jacket and knee length shorts. Text is as follows: To cut the Coat and Vest use scale corresponding with chest measure. THE COAT Is in six pieces : Front, Back, Collar, Pocket Lap and two Sleeve portions. Is drafted out upon the general plan. Is in two pieces: Front and Back. Care should be taken to follow the arrows in drafting.
Page 87 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a pair of Men's Overalls, text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with waist measure. Is in two pieces: One-half of Overalls and Strap. Regulate the length by the use of the tape line.
Page 88 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Boy's Overcoat which looks like a typical, heavy, tailored men's coat that has no visible buttons but pocket flaps on the breast and sides. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with bust measure. Is in seven pieces: Front, Back, Collar, two Pocket Laps and two Sleeve portions. Is drafted upon the general plan of work. Regulate the length by the tape measure.
Page 89 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is titled Boys' Overcoat Continued and contains the patterns for the Collar, Pocket Laps, and Sleeves.
Page 90 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a boy's street costume which, as was the custom at the time for boys under 6, looks similar to some of the girl's outfits in previous posts from this book with the jacket and pleated skirt. The only difference I can see is no bustle like the girl's skirts have. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with the bust measure. Is in ten pieces : Front, Back, Side Back, Collar, Cuff, Belt, two Sleeve portions, and two portions of the Skirt. THE FRONT. Lay a box plait down the centre of the front and a side plait on each side turning toward the centre of front. THE BACK. Lay a box plait down the centre of back and a side plait on each side turning toward centre of back. Each plait is marked. THE SKIRT Is drafted by the waist measure. Is in two pieces : Box plaiting for front and side plaiting for back part of skirt. Each plait is marked. Regulate the length by the tape measure.
Page 91 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is labelled Boys' Street Costume Continued. It contains the patterns for one half of the skirt, sleeves, and the plaiting for the front of the skirt.
Page 92 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a boys costume, which is virtually unchanged today in a lot of British golfing outfits and menswear. The illustration is of a boy wearing a bowler hat, blazer with the pocket kerchief, and the breeches you still see at times. text is as follows THE COAT. Use scale corresponding with the chest measure. Is in five pieces: Front, Back, Collar, and two Sleeve portions. This is drafted upon the general plan of work. THE VEST. Use scale corresponding with the chest measure. Is in three pieces: Front, Back and Strap. THE PANTS. Use scale corresponding with the hip measure. Is in four pieces: Front, Back, Fly, and Pocket Facing. Regulate the length by the tape measure.
Page 93 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is labelled Boys' costume continued and contains the patterns for the front, back, sleeves, and vest strap.
Page 94 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page contains the patterns for the back and front of the pants, the pocket facing, and fly.
Page 95 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Gentleman's Prince Albert Coat. Text is as follows: GENTLEMAN'S PRINCE ALBERT COAT. corresponding with the chest Front, Back, Side Back, Front, Collar and two Use scale measure. Is in eight pieces: Skirt, Facing for Sleeve portions. This is drafted out upon the general plan of work. Follow the arrows closely. Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure. GENTLEMAN'S VEST. Take the chest measure over the vest and use scale to correspond. Take measure for length from center of the back of the neck over the shoulder, close to the neck, down in front' the length to be worn, plus one inch for seams. This will give correct length of vest. Make up with or without collar, as desired. The front can be cut higher or lower, to suit. GENTLEMAN'S PANTS. Take the measure directly over hip joint — this gives the number of scale to use. Regulate size if the waist and length of leg by the tape line. The length of leg can be taken by inseam measure, or from the hip-joint to sole of shoe. If the length of leg has to be changed, change the knee line one-half the distance. Cut the right side of front on the inside line on the front for the fly. the outer line.
Page 96 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is labelled Gentleman's Suit Continued. It contains the patterns for the pants, collar, waist band, jacket, and jacket skirt.
Page 97 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888
Page 98 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a Boy's overcoat, which is a double breasted knee length coat according to the illustration. Text is as follows: Use scale corresponding with the chest measure over the coat. Is in six pieces: Front, Back, Side Back, Collar, Pocket Lap, and two Sleeve portions. This garment is drafted out upon the general plan of work. Regulate the length by the tape line.
Page 99 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. This page is labelled Boys' Overcoat Continued. It has the patterns for the front and sleeves.
Page 100 of The National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888. Pattern for a gentleman's overcoat, text is as follows: Draft by scale corresponding with Chest measure taken over the coat. Regulate length and size of waist by tape line. Take measure for Sleeve from center of back to knuckle joint. Deduct width of back piece less one inch for seams, this gives length of sleeves. If length of sleeve by the scale corresponds with this measure, the length is correct; if not, change the scale line at wrist until it corresponds with tape measure, changing elbow line one-half the distance same direction. Regulate length to suit.

Dublin Core

Title

National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888 by Goldsberry & Doran

Description

A Collection of Cutting Diagrams circa 1888

Citation

National Garment Cutter's Book of Diagrams ca. 1888 by Goldsberry & Doran, accessed February 4, 2026, https://blackbirds.wiki/items/show/1

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